The relationship between popes and artists in 17th century Rome was far from simple. It was a scandalous landscape of artistic rivalry, fueled by papal patronage and personal ambitions. Prominent figures like Bernini and Caravaggio navigated this treacherous world, where rumors of illicit affairs and violent confrontations underscored the tension between divine inspiration and human frailty. What secrets and scandals lurked behind the breathtaking works that defined the Baroque era? The answers lie in the fountains, churches, and piazzas of Rome.
Key Points

-
The Trevi Fountain, a centerpiece of intrigue and scandal, was marked by a rivalry between Baroque architects Bernini and Borromini, fueled by artistic egos and Papal patronage.
-
The Temple of Hadrian in Piazza di Pietra, a site for heated debates and artistic rivalries, holds secrets of past scandals in its weathered stones.
-
The Church of Sant’Ignazio di Loyola, an architectural marvel of the Baroque era, is intertwined with the rivalries and intrigues of the Papacy.
-
The Pantheon, converted into a Christian church, and the Church of St. Louis of the French, witnessed a rivalry between Caravaggio and Guido Reni that ended in bloodshed.
-
Bernini’s favored status with Pope Urban VIII led to artistic freedom and a scandalous love triangle, while Caravaggio’s tumultuous life was marked by a fiery temper and legal troubles.
Trevi Fountain: A Fountain of Intrigue

The Trevi Fountain is a captivating centerpiece of intrigue and scandal from the 1600s.
The Trevi Fountain, a captivating centerpiece of intrigue and scandal from the 1600s.
This iconic landmark witnessed the passionate rivalry between two renowned Baroque architects – Bernini and Borromini. Their competition to design the fountain was fueled by their artistic egos and the patronage of powerful Popes.
Rumors swirled of secret love affairs, blackmail, and even a duel between the two men.
Today, the fountain’s cascading waters immortalize the dramatic tensions of the era, reminding visitors of the high stakes and personal dramas that unfolded in the shadows of 17th-century Rome.
Looking for more options in Rome? We've reviewed plenty of other experiences.
Piazza Di Pietra: Secrets in Stone

Leaving the Trevi Fountain‘s dramatic intrigue behind, visitors arrive at the serene Piazza di Pietra.
This square is home to the Temple of Hadrian, a magnificent monument dating back to the 2nd century AD. The temple’s towering columns and ornate facade hint at the grandeur of ancient Rome.
Today, the Piazza is a peaceful respite, though it was once the site of scandalous behavior. Artists and patrons gathered here, engaging in heated debates and even occasional duels over artistic rivalries.
The square’s secrets lie etched in its weathered stones, waiting to be uncovered by the discerning eye.
The Captivating Church of Sant’ignazio Di Loyola

Visitors eagerly cross the Piazza di Pietra, eager to set eyes on the captivating Church of Sant’Ignazio di Loyola. This architectural marvel showcases the grandeur of the Baroque era, with its ornate façade and stunning interiors.
| Feature | Description |
| — | — |
| Dome | An impressive false dome soars overhead, an optical illusion that dazzles the senses. |
| Frescoes | Breathtaking frescoes adorn the ceiling, depicting religious scenes in vibrant colors. |
| Sculptures | Intricate sculptures line the walls, adding to the church’s opulent ambiance.
The church’s history is just as captivating, intertwined with the rivalries and intrigues of the Papacy and the artistic elite of 17th-century Rome.
The Pantheon: Pagan Roots, Christian Influences
Looming majestically over the Piazza della Rotonda, the Pantheon commands attention with its imposing presence. This ancient Roman temple, once dedicated to the pagan gods, has a rich and complex history.
In the 7th century, it was converted into a Christian church, with the addition of a bell tower and the replacement of pagan statues with Christian icons. Today, the Pantheon’s distinctive dome and striking architectural design continue to captivate visitors.
Inside, the building’s harmonious proportions and intricate details bear witness to the enduring legacy of Roman engineering and the intertwining of pagan and Christian influences.
More Great Tours NearbyScandal at the Church of St. Louis of the French

As the tour moves from the serene grandeur of the Pantheon, it takes an intriguing turn towards the Church of St. Louis of the French.
Within these hallowed walls, a scandalous tale unfolds. The dramatic rivalry between the artists Caravaggio and Guido Reni comes to a head, with a duel that ends in bloodshed.
Caravaggio’s sensual and unconventional paintings, deemed too provocative for the church, further stoke the flames of controversy.
Visitors are captivated by the juxtaposition of sacred space and sordid intrigue, a testament to the tumultuous artistic landscape of 17th-century Rome.
- Rome: Colosseum, Roman Forum and Palatine Hill Fully Guided Tour
- Pompeii Day Trip From Rome With Mount Vesuvius or Positano Option
- Skip-the-Line Group Tour of the Vatican, Sistine Chapel & St. Peters Basilica
- Pizza Cooking Class in Rome – Near Piazza Navona
- Cooking Class in the Heart of Rome: Pizza and Tiramisu Making
- Pasta Cooking Class in Rome – Fettuccine Class in Piazza Navona
From the Church of St. Louis of the French, the tour group made their way to Piazza Navona.
This historic square was a prime stage for the artistic rivalries of the 1600s. Bernini and Borromini, two of the era’s greatest architects, engaged in a fierce competition to design the stunning fountains and buildings around the piazza.
Their bitter feud spilled into the public sphere, with each trying to outdo the other. Visitors can still see the legacy of this rivalry today, as they marvel at the dramatic Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi and the unique Chiesa di Sant’Agnese in Agone.
Bernini and the Pope’s Favorite
Gian Lorenzo Bernini, the renowned Baroque sculptor and architect, had a special relationship with Pope Urban VIII. Bernini was the Pope’s favorite artist, enjoying his patronage and artistic freedom. However, their bond went beyond the professional, as Bernini had an affair with Olimpia Maidalchini, the Pope’s sister-in-law and de facto "First Lady" of the Papal States. This scandalous love triangle fueled rumors, gossip, and intrigue at the Vatican.
| Relationship | Bernini | Pope Urban VIII | Olimpia Maidalchini |
|————–|———|—————-|——————–|
| Professional | Favorite artist | Patron | – |
| Personal | Lover | Brother-in-law | Mistress |
| Political | – | Ruler of Papal States | Powerful influence |
| Social | – | Nobility | Nobility |
| Religious | – | Pope | – |
Caravaggio’s Tumultuous Life and Legacy
Caravaggio’s life was anything but ordinary. A renowned Italian painter in the Baroque era, his work was as captivating as his personal life was tumultuous.
Caravaggio’s fiery temper and penchant for brawling often landed him in trouble with the law. He even murdered a man in a dispute over a tennis match.
Despite his volatile nature, Caravaggio’s innovative style and use of dramatic chiaroscuro made him a highly sought-after artist, even among Rome’s elite.
However, his freedom-loving spirit ultimately led to his downfall, as he was forced to flee the city after further violent incidents.
Caravaggio’s legacy endures as that of a brilliant but troubled genius.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I Take Photos Inside the Churches?
Photos are generally allowed inside the churches visited on this tour, but visitors should be respectful and avoid disrupting services or using flash photography. It’s best to check with the guide for any specific rules.
What Is the Dress Code for Visiting Churches?
Most churches in Rome have a dress code that requires visitors to cover their shoulders and knees. Shorts, short skirts, and sleeveless tops are generally not allowed. Visitors should dress modestly to enter the sacred spaces.
How Accessible Is the Tour for People With Mobility Issues?
The tour route includes some cobblestone streets and uneven terrain. Though it’s not fully accessible, the guide can accommodate guests with mobility issues on a case-by-case basis. Advance notice is recommended to ensure they can provide the best experience.
Are There Any Discounts Available for Seniors or Students?
The tour doesn’t offer any specific discounts for seniors or students, but you can check if your travel agency or hotel has any packages that include this tour at a reduced rate. The general price is $54.61 per person.
Is It Possible to Book a Private Tour for a Larger Group?
Yes, the tour company offers private tours for larger groups. Clients can contact the company to inquire about availability and pricing for a private booking to suit their group size and needs.
The Sum Up
The fractious relationship between popes and artists in 17th-century Rome was a double-edged sword. While it fueled artistic innovation and patronage, it also bred scandals, rivalries, and even violence. This turbulent backdrop shaped the Baroque era, leaving a legacy of both breathtaking creativity and troubling human drama. The era’s artistic brilliance was inextricably linked to the complex, often contentious, dynamics between the Church and its favored creators.
You can check availability for your dates here:More Tours in Rome
- Rome: Private Walking Tour with a Local
- Rome: Exclusive Private Tour of St. Peters Basilica
- Rome: Vespa tour When in Rome with Dessert and Photography
- Rome: Small Group Walking Tour in English or Spanish
- Rome: Capuchin Crypts & Ghostly Legends Small Group Tour
- St.Peter’s Basilica & Vatican Grottoes: Guided Tour in Rome
More Tour Reviews in Rome
Still browsing? Here are more Rome experiences we've covered recently
- 13 Fantastic Wine Tours In Rome
- 14 Top Private Driver Services In Rome (With Reviews & Prices)
- Which Rome Shore Excursions To Choose? Our Best 6 Picks
- The 14 Most Popular City Tours In Rome
- Which Rome Tours & Experiences To Choose? We Rank The 14 Best
- 14 Must-Try Cruises And Boat Tours In Rome
- Discover 14 Great Tours In Rome
- 12 Best Walking Tours In Rome (With Reviews & Prices)
- 14 Of The Best Shopping & Market Tours In Rome
- The Top 13 Rome Workshops & Classes
- 14 Must-Try Lunch Experiences In Rome
- Our 14 Favorite Rome Motorbike And Scooter Rentals
